Triple Beam Owner's Manual & Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting:

Before troubleshooting please take these words of "Balance Beam Wisdom":   Balance Beams are a very old and basic design of scale.  They date back to the ancient Egyptian Empire and Balance Beam scales were used to build the pyramids.   Thus, the design is quite simple - a cup (hidden on modern beam scales) filled with metal loose weights and some metal sliding weights.   Therefore to fix a Balance Beam scale requires very basic steps - such as adding/removing weight from the cup or using a wrench to make the beam operate smoothly (if it's touching or rubbing as it operates).   First, before troubleshooting be certain that you have correctly unpacked the scale and removed all rubber stoppers (you'd be surprised how many times this happens).  Also be sure that the sliding weights are all at their proper ZERO position.   Please be 100% sure that you have removed both rubber stoppers and all packing bands/materials.

1) "My Scale Won't Zero":  Sometimes in transport the beam will somehow become unbalanced. This means adjusting the zero knob doesn't make the scale zero properly.  If this happens to your scale please know that you can manually add or remove weight to the "Balance Cup".  The Balance cup is located underneath the round metal tray.   Simply spin the tray off (counterclockwise) to access the Balance Cup and add or remove weight as follows:

If your scale would not zero because it was reading too light (meaning you would have had to press down on the tray to make it zero),  then add a small amount of weight to the cup (just a coin or paperclip,  you can add or remove weight as you require).

If your scale would not zero because it was reading too heavy (meaning you would have had to pull up on the tray to make it zero),  then remove a small amount of weight from the cup (just remove a tiny amount,  you can remove or add weight as you require).  

If you are trying to compensate for a small bowl or tray,  you can remove weight from the cup until the scale Zeros.   The Balance Beam is a very basic scale and if it Zeros & moves freely,  then it always reads accurately.

2) "The Beam is Rubbing / Touching":  In order for this scale to work properly, it must operate smoothly without touching or rubbing.   Sometimes in transport the beam will get shifted and touch the internal magnets by the front of the beam (where the "0" indicator is).   If this happens please try to manually adjust the beam using a wrench on the main bolt under the scale.   Simply twist the beam to make it operate smoothly.   If you cannot make the beam operate smoothly then the scale will need to be sent in for service.

3) "My Scale won't go back to Zero":  A triple beam works with a set of sliding weights.  If these weights are not put back EXACTLY to their Zero position,  the scale won't return to zero.   Be sure that when you Zero the scale you note where you have put all 3 weights exactly,   then when you are done weighing be sure they are in the exact same place.  Based on the laws of physics it would be impossible for the beam not to return to Zero if the weights are put back to the same spot (unless the beam is rubbing/touching or if the surface you are weighing on is not level).

Construction and Application
The My Weigh MB-2610 Single-Pan Balance is of unequal arm type with three beams. The beam is made of high quality aluminum alloy and the plane is of agate which can improve accuracy of use and lengthen life of operation. To speed up weight readings, the magnetic damping system brings the pointer to rest with a minimum number of swings.

It is widely suitable for physical-chemistry experiments and analytical weighing in chemical works, medical and hygiene, food-stuff, agriculture, textiles, electronics, mines, scientific research institutions, universities and colleges, etc. 

Unpacking:

Carefully remove the balance and the separate poise (sliding weight) from the

protective carton. You will find a slit rubber washer lodged underneath the

platform, and one rubber washer located above the pointer. The washers are to

be removed from the scale.

Set-up:

After placing the balance on a smooth, flat surface, slide each separate poise (sliding weight) into it’s zero slot. With all poises at the zero position, the pointer should be near zero.

Carrying the Balance:

Be sure all riders are back to the zero point. Place one hand under the balance and the other hand on the support (arm) to carry the balance.

Zeroing:

For exact zero, adjust the knurled knob which is located at the left end of the beam. It is advisable to check the zero adjustment periodically.

Weighing Process:

Before Weighing:

 Zero the balance before you determine the weight of any substance.
        a) Slide all of the riders back to the zero point.
        b) Check to see that the pointer swings freely along the scale.
        c) Use the adjustment knob to obtain an equal swing of the beams, if necessary. You do not have to wait for the pointer to stop at the zero point. The beam should swing an equal distance above and below the zero point. You must repeat this procedure to "zero" the balance every time you use it.

Begin Weighing:

Place the specimen on the center of the platform and proceed as follows:

1. Starting with the largest capacity beam (500 g), move the 500 g poise to the

right to the first notch which causes the pointer to drop, then, move it back one

notch, causing the pointer to rise.

2. Repeat procedure with the 100 g poise.

3. Slide the 10 g poise to the position that brings the pointer to rest at zero.

The weight of the specimen is the sum of the values of all poise positions, read

directly from the graduated beams.

NOTES:

A)       Never put a hot object directly on the balance pan. Any dry chemical that is to be massed should be placed on paper or in a container.

B)      Never pour chemicals directly on the balance pan.   Remember to weigh or zero the paper or container before adding the substance.

C)      Remember; the pointer does not have to stop swinging, but the swing should be an equal distance above and below the zero point on the scale.

Attachment weights:

Total capacity is either 2610 grams or 5 pounds, 2 ounces when attachment weights are suspended from the pivots. Without the weights, the capacity is

610 grams (1 pound, 2 ounces).

Care and maintenance:

Keep the balance clean at all times.  Most dirt or foreign matter can easily be

removed with an air syringe, but a piece of adhesive-backed tape pressed against the magnet faces will keep them free from dirt.  Never apply lubricants to the knives or bearings and don’t allow dirt or foreign materials to accumulate on any part of the beam.  The Beam must be kept clean in order to provide years of accurate stable readings.

Specifications
Capacity:
Without attachment weights: 610g
With included attachment weights: 2610g

Readability: 0.1g
Weighing Units: grams
Beam Calibrations: 10 x 0.1g, 100 x 10g, 500 x 100g
Features:

Three beam direct reading

Attachment Weights Included
Magnetic Damping System

Troubleshooting:

Before troubleshooting please take these words of "Balance Beam Wisdom":   Balance Beams are a very old and basic design of scale.  They date back to the ancient Egyptian Empire and Balance Beam scales were used to build the pyramids.   Thus, the design is quite simple - a cup (hidden on modern beam scales) filled with metal loose weights and some metal sliding weights.   Therefore to fix a Balance Beam scale requires very basic steps - such as adding/removing weight from the cup or using a wrench to make the beam operate smoothly (if it's touching or rubbing as it operates).   First, before troubleshooting be certain that you have correctly unpacked the scale and removed all rubber stoppers (you'd be surprised how many times this happens).  Also be sure that the sliding weights are all at their proper ZERO position.   Please be 100% sure that you have removed both rubber stoppers and all packing bands/materials.

1) "My Scale Won't Zero":  Sometimes in transport the beam will somehow become unbalanced. This means adjusting the zero knob doesn't make the scale zero properly.  If this happens to your scale please know that you can manually add or remove weight to the "Balance Cup".  The Balance cup is located underneath the round metal tray.   Simply spin the tray off (counterclockwise) to access the Balance Cup and add or remove weight as follows

If your scale would not zero because it was reading too light (meaning you would have had to press down on the tray to make it zero),  then add a small amount of weight to the cup (just a coin or paperclip,  you can add or remove weight as you require).

If your scale would not zero because it was reading too heavy (meaning you would have had to pull up on the tray to make it zero),  then remove a small amount of weight from the cup (just remove a tiny amount,  you can remove or add weight as you require).  

If you are trying to compensate for a small bowl or tray,  you can remove weight from the cup until the scale Zeros.   The Balance Beam is a very basic scale and if it Zeros & moves freely,  then it always reads accurately.

2) "The Beam is Rubbing / Touching":  In order for this scale to work properly, it must operate smoothly without touching or rubbing.   Sometimes in transport the beam will get shifted and touch the internal magnets by the front of the beam (where the "0" indicator is).   If this happens please try to manually adjust the beam using a wrench on the main bolt under the scale.   Simply twist the beam to make it operate smoothly.   If you cannot make the beam operate smoothly then the scale will need to be sent in for service.

How Much Should My Birds Weigh?

Healthy adult cockatiels usually weigh 78 to 125 grams. Birds should always be weighed in grams, which is a metric measurement. (There are approximately 28 grams in an ounce.) It is important that a bird is weighed on an accurate gram scale. Electronic scales are available for purchase from bird-supply companies and office-supply retailers. These can be modified by installing a lightweight perch to facilitate weighing birds. A basket may come with some models for weighing baby birds and eggs. Another accurate scale is the triple-beam balance. Serious aviculturists, hobby breeders and pet owners should purchase a quality scale to periodically weigh eggs, babies and pet birds.

Monitoring your bird's weight is one of the easiest ways to keep tabs on its health. Weight change is a very good indicator of a problem with a bird. Weight gain (in an adult bird) may alert an owner and avian vet about the possibility of a bird developing fatty liver syndrome (hepatic lipidosis), fatty tumors (lipomas and xanthomas) or generalized lipornatosis (an abnormal layer of fat deposited under the skin). Weight gain may also be caused by metabolic problems, heart or liver problems resulting in a fluid build-up, problems associated with egg binding, some tumors, lack of exercise or an inappropriate diet.

Weight loss can be a sign of many infectious diseases (including proventricular dilatation disease [PDD], aspergillosis and others), infestation with parasites (including Giardia and roundworms), inappropriate diet, competition for food with other birds, metabolic problems, some tumors and beak problems.

So, weight change should always be brought to the attention of your avian vet. If you have an accurate gram scale, I recommend that you get into the habit of weighing your pet birds on a weekly basis. Weight loss that is not discernable by handling your bird will be documented by the scale long before a bird may become clinically ill and weight loss is obvious.

Just as there are variations in the weights of humans, the same holds true for our birds. Some people are tall and model thin, and, in the industry, Hollywood called some actresses and models "lollipops" because it seems like their heads are too large for their stick-like bodies. This, of course, represents an extreme in body type, but people come in all shapes and sizes. If you have ever checked out the insurance company's weight charts, you'll notice that they have a great weight range for each height on the chart, based on a persons bone structure. While bone structure descriptions are not available for birds, an experienced avian vet will decide if your bird's weight is normal for its size. When I evaluate a bird, I take into account its total length, body structure, pectoral muscling and amount of visible and palpable body fat. I also factor into the equation information from the history regarding the birds diet, cage size and activity level.

When I weigh a bird and give the owner the number, I am invariably asked if this is a good weight for the bird. Because I usually weigh the bird first, before I perform the hands-on physical exam, I cannot answer that question immediately. Once I weigh the bird, then look at it and palpate (carefully feel) the bones, pectoral (chest) muscles, skin and body fat, I can make an assessment about the weight. Deciding if a bird is too thin or too fat is quite a subjective matter, and cannot be simply based on a number on a scale.

Some cockatiels, especially some lutinos and other color mutations bred for the pet trade, tend to be rather smallboned birds. For these birds, a weight between 78 and 90 grams may be average. Cockatiel breeders that are selectively breeding their birds for showing in competition will usually have larger birds. They tend to be longer and more solid in appearance, and often weigh between 110 and 125 grams. I have seen pet cockatiels; that weighed in at a rotund 150 grams. One cinnamon hen comes to mind. She was so obese that she had actual cleavage of the pectoral muscles and a large amount of body fat. By evaluation of her length and bone structure, I estimated that she should have weighed about 125 grams. In the bird world, hens tend to be smaller than males, but, as with all things, there are exceptions.

You can see that you can have the cockatiel equivalents of Laurel and Hardy. There are many different body types and weights, with some that need to be monitored closely so that they do not gain too much weight. It is very important that you establish what is a normal weight for your pet birds. An accurate gram scale is an important piece of equipment for the serious bird owner. As an alternative, many avian vets will weigh your birds for you at no charge or for a minimal fee. You will just need to be diligent enough to bring your bird into the clinic periodically for its weigh-in. Either way, monitoring your birds' weights is easy and could save their lives by allowing early diagnosis of many medical problems.

Black-headed caique - 145 to 170 grams

Blue-and-gold macaw 800 to 1292 grams

Blue-crowned conure - 84 to 100 grams

Blue-fronted Amazon - 275 to 510 grams (avg. 400 to 430 grams)

Blue-headed pionus - 230 to 260 grams (avg. 250 grams)

Budgerigar - 25 to 60 grams (average 25 to 36 grams)

Canary - 12 to 29 grams

Congo African grey - 380 to 554 grams

Double-yellow-headed Amazon - 450 to 650 grams

Goffin's cockatoo - 221 to 386 grams

Green-cheeked conure - 60 to 80 grams

Greenwinged macaw - 900 to 1529 grams

Lovebird - 45 to 70 grams

Moluccan cockatoo - 640 to 1025 grams (avg. 850 grams)

Pacific parrotlet - 31 to 34 grams

Quaker parakeet - 90 to 150 grams (avg. 110 to 120)

Rose-breasted cockatoo - 281 to 390 grams

Senegal parrot - 110 to 130 grams (avg. 125 grams)

Sun conure - 100 to 130 grams (avg. 120)

Timneh African grey - 300 to 360 grams

Umbrella cockatoo - 458 to 750 grams (avg. 600 to 700 grams)

Yellow-naped Amazon - 480 to 680 grams

Zebra finch - 10 to 16 grams

Some of these weight ranges are from published sources; others come directly from weights derived in my own practice.